The best Normal Route

There had been wide and easy trails leading from Zermatt to Fluhalp, but as we passed Fluhalp the track deteriorated as we started ascending up along Findel Glacier, to finally disappear in the scree. It really was an advantage to use a bivouac as starting point for the climb, for not even did we get much closer to the mountain, thus making the next day's climb shorter, but we also could climb this scree at daylight instead of finding our way with the headlamp in the very early morning hours. We reached the Pfulwe col between the minor summit of the same name and Spitzi Flue, and soon found an excellent bivi site. The site was guarded by this Spitzi Flue, which to our surprise was a nicely shaped summit too.

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