Climbing Matterhorn

I had decided to postpone climbing Matterhorn until I found the right partner and opportunity, so I would be able to climb the mountain by the Zmutt Ridge, but Per Lyhne made a change to that in 1995. We had just made several good climbs in Dauphiné, had continued with Mont Maudit in Chamonix, and had now arrived in Zermatt, where Per was of the opinion that we should make an attempt on Matterhorn. However, not by the Zmutt Ridge, but by the more manageable Hörnli Ridge.